An All-Win Situation
Catch Twenty-Three features trendy eats for young professionals on a budget.

BY DIANA PETERFREUND, Weekly Planet

On the drive to Westchase, my over-educated date and I speculated on the meaning behind the name Catch Twenty-Three. Was it meant to reference the many trials the restaurateurs had to endure before they opened their restaurant? Was it meant to hint that, even after you've escaped the cycle of Catch-22, there are other, more heinous challenges to be met?

No. As we were informed by the chefs upon arrival, it's just a pun. It's cute, it's memorable it's ... catchy. And, since Catch Twenty-Three is a seafood restaurant, it's almost fitting. This casual, upscale eatery isn't going for symbolism, just fresh Floribbean cuisine, island-inspired drinks and a snazzy style that appeals to the young professional clientele who inhabit the surrounding townhouses of West Park Village.

To cease any further reflections on dying literary metaphors, we hit the liquor list. Catch's full bar features a host of "Floribbean Cocktails" ($5.90 apiece). Some of the more familiar, like sour apple martinis and cosmopolitans, stretch the description (cranberries are not exactly tropical), but most were original enough to sample. Our favorite, a Latin Love, tasted like a piña colada with raspberries; the uninspired lemon drop martini, however, didn't even have the expected sugar rim.

Fortunately, the appetizers kicked ass. I was especially fond of the shredded pork barbecue ($5.50). Huge scoops of tender Caribbean-style barbecued pork worked a molasses-heavy sauce atop slices of pan-fried sweet plantains. A side of fruity Jamaican cole slaw provided the perfect touch. I was in hog heaven. This is most definitely a starter to share, or even one that could serve as a meaty entrée in its own right. Another appetizer that could do double duty is the mountain of braised Prince Edward Island mussels served in a coconut lime curry broth ($7.90).

More manageable portions were in evidence with the Red Stripe Beer-battered calamari ($6.90). Though Catch's version was pretty basic in flavor and presentation (roasted red pepper remoulade! Never seen that before!), the dish would please anyone looking for an admirable take on an old favorite. We also tried the delicious, creamy Bahamian conch chowder ($4.50), which was served in a generous bowl topped with an even more generous sprinkling of spicy cayenne pepper.

By the time our entrées arrived, we had moved onto wines. Catch offers 36 wines (32 of which are available by glass) from four continents on its standard list, as well as a more extended reserve list. The by-the-bottle prices are pretty reasonable restaurant rates, though the glass prices are slightly steeper. But the cost is balanced out by the selection; one can expect to pay at least $7 for a decent glass.

Catch Twenty-Three prides itself on fresh fish, so when faced with, say, a lack of Florida grouper, the restaurant has it delivered from the Yucatan. Shetland Island salmon, Costa Rican tuna, Chilean sea bass and Ecuadorian mahi mahi round out the list of international fin fish. We tried the quintessential Floribbean dish of macadamia-encrusted fish filet on mango salsa ($19.50). Flaky, buttery sea bass with macadamia sweetness was tempered by a tart, tangerine-colored citrus buerre blanc and, of course, the requisite fresh mango salsa. A side of rice capped with crisped coconut shavings avoided the usual dryness problem, and a ginger-infused sweet potato salad deserved special recognition.

Our other entrée was portrayed on the menu as "shrimp scampi, Caribbean style" ($15). Though, as a phrase, "shrimp scampi" is redundant (scampi is an Italian word for shrimp), the dish is commonly understood to be some variation of shrimp in a butter, garlic and white wine sauce. Catch's version consisted of seven large, sautéed Gulf shrimp in a heavy tomato and roasted garlic sauce. Once we got over our initial confusion, however, we relished the savory combination, which featured more than a touch of bitter lime and tart capers.

Iridescent fish prints (complete with $500 price tags) on the walls, trendy mini track lights and a mix of old- and new-school reggae on the sound system complete the picture. Catch Twenty-Three is catering to a young, affluent audience of folks who care about where their seafood comes from, but don't want to pay an arm and a leg for a dinner date. Though neither the menu nor the presentation sets the culinary world on fire, the restaurant hits all the right notes and has plenty of quality substance to back up its ample style. And for Catch Twenty-Three, that's an all-win situation.

Diana Peterfreund dines anonymously and the Planet pays for her meals. She may be contacted at diana.peterfreund@weeklyplanet.com.
Restaurants are chosen for review at the discretion of the writer, and are not related to advertising.