Westchase
Lands A Hearty Catch
By Kurt Loft of The Tampa Tribune
Published: October 1, 2003
WESTCHASE - The suburbs of northwest Tampa are a self-contained
mini-city, with easy access to the Veterans Expressway and
all the virtues of the Bay area good life. New growth means
more restaurants to feed the hungry masses, and one of the
best in the Westchase area presents fresh seafood with a
contemporary flair. Catch 23 has been open long enough to
iron out most kinks, and two visits gave us a sampling of
its ample selection of fish. The owners run a clean and tight
ship, and the kitchen takes noticeable pride in a creative
use of ingredients and sauces, elegantly fused in stylized
Caribbean entrees on large plates.
Diners can eyeball slabs of fish in a large glass case, or
with a quick phone call get the scoop on what looks best
for the night. Catch 23 offers spacious booths and tables,
an open-hearth kitchen, a separate lounge and outdoor tables
on Montague Street, where patrons can watch the bustle of
West Park Village Town Center.
Waiters deliver large baskets of delicious sourdough mini-loaves
and slices of nut bread, which we devoured over a Catch Salad
with tropical citrus vinaigrette. A favorite appetizer
is the Cuba Libre, a marinated pork tenderloin in rum
and cola, grilled and served with a piquant Creole mustard
lime sauce and a small bowl of addicting ginger-laced sweet
potato salad. We also enjoyed munching on the Red Stripe
Beer Calamari, lightly fried and spiced and served with a
puree of roasted red peppers; a heady Blue Crab Cake with
mango salsa; and crispy Shrimp Spring Rolls stuffed with
vegetables and curried crustaceans, which we dipped in a
pina colada sauce.
The menu lists sources of certified fresh fish: salmon
from Scottish waters, tuna from Costa Rica, scallops from
Massachusetts and grouper from Florida's Gulf coast.
Fillets are brushed with olive oil and Key lime juice and
cooked over pecan wood. We definitely recommend the Sun Tan
Salmon, perfectly cooked to our liking and glazed with guava
barbecue sauce, nestled on the plate with roasted corn salsa
and coconut rice. Another favorite is sautéed Black
Grouper, the flesh succulent and married into a rich cream
sauce livened with mushrooms, tomatoes and hearts of palm.
The kitchen pan sears its scallops and tops them with a plantain
daiquiri cream sauce; offers a Maine Lobster Ravioli in cilantro-avocado
cream; presents Peppercorn Encrusted Tuna on a pool of red
wine butter; and makes a Shrimp Scampi Caribbean with capers,
garlic and lime. Our 9-ounce filet mignon was tender but
lacking in the flavor we come to expect from a $20 cut of
meat.
Other options for carnivores include Jamaican Jerk Pork Tenderloin;
a 14-ounce Adobo Rib Eye; spicy Guava Baby Back Ribs; Buckhead
Beef New York Strip; and a double-breast Caribbean Jerk Chicken.
The restaurant offers 30 wines by the glass, a full range
from light and sweet whites to heavy reds. For early birds
on a budget, the restaurant presents a sunset dinner menu:
a choice of four entrees, salad and dessert for $10. Service
on our visits was polite and efficient.
Tribune reviewers eat anonymously.
Kurt Loft can be reached at (813) 259-7570.
CRITIC'S RATING: Food: B; Service: B
BOTTOM LINE: Fresh seafood in Westchase
RESERVATIONS: Yes
CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes
ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PRICE: Dinner entrees range from $14 to $20 |
